Petit Poussin Al Mattone ($26) was the biggest letdown. The base of the bowl contained chowder chock-full of supple clams and sweet corn chowder flavored with smoky black pig guanciale (cured pork cheek) and backyard tarragon. At least the fish was flaky and paired well with the golden cornmeal crust. The whole cloves of roasted garlic obviously had plenty of flavor, but got to be too intense.Ĭornmeal Crusted Farallon Island Sand Dab ($26) posed a logistic challenge, since the single fillet still contained plenty of bones. The ratio was also off on the ravioli, with way too much dough and not enough of that spicy molten blue cheese. The steak was juicy and had a decent sear, but wasn’t worth ordering instead of the sand dabs. That was really a nice touch.Įverybody else wanted to order the sand dabs, but they still wanted to try the flat iron steak, so I was basically bullied into order the Grilled Flat Iron Steak ($27) with Little Point Reyes blue cheese ravioli and ruby chard. Since the menu read, “u pick, if you like,” Allison got the opportunity to clip the lettuces for her salad. Palmer’s fresh ricotta and plated with bursting cherry tomatoes, shavings of sharp Pecorino and a light sprinkling of lemon olive oil.īackyard Red Oak Lettuce ($13) salad featured crisp lolla rossa leaves, juicy sliced peaches, pistachios and thin shavings of Bohemian Creamery Capriago, a creamy goat’s milk cheese along the lines of Asiago. Squash Blossom Friti ($13.50) was the best version all weekend, featuring delicately fried blossoms filled with Sarah J. The tangy grapes are pickled with ingredients like apple cider vinegar, brown sugar and clove and cut the pork’s richness. No matter what ingredients Stewart uses, the pairing is always pickled grapes, cut in half and tossed on top of the meat. He’s also been known to spike his salumi with Ginger and Fennel Pollen. The salumi is always different, depending Stewart’s whim. We bypassed Tartufo Nero (black truffle), but still scored glistening rows of well-marbled salumi flavored with spicy Moroccan-influenced Harissa, Genoa (white wine + black pepper) and Felino (red wine + black pepper). Their provenance was in evidence on our three-salumi “butcher’s plate” ($22). Stewart makes bacon and salumi using heirloom black pigs that are antibiotic and hormone free. “Salumist” John Stewart operates out of Bovolo, a sister restaurant on Healdsburg’s main square, and his efforts reverberate to Zazu. Palmer oversees the backyard garden, which is guarded by Prune, Duskie’s dog. The flavor of the meal didn’t quite match the ambition of their vision, but Zazu is still a worthy dinner destination after a day of winery or brewery stops.Ĭhef gardener Sarah J. Chefs Zoi Antonitsas & Duskie Estes also use homemade salumi and sustainable animals. The owners’ commitment to seasonal cooking is hardly limited to lettuces, vegetables and herbs. Before long, you’ll encounter Zazu, a market-driven restaurant on the outskirts of town that captures Sonoma County’s essence, with many ingredients plucked right from the backyard garden. Heighten the “keeping it real” feel by watching the kitchen action while dining at the copper-topped bar.Drive west from downtown Santa Rosa and strip malls soon give way to fields. Dipping signature nutter-butters into dark chocolate fondue makes for a happy ending. Happily, certain dishes like balsamic pork shoulder and a Bellwether Farms Carmody cheese sandwich with spicy tomato soup bridge the seasons. Big plates run the gamut from wild salmon with corn griddle cakes and watermelon, to zucchini “three ways” (gratin, fried blossom and foam). Small plates might include house-made fennel sausage and marmalade, Zazu-cured duck prosciutto with melon and torn basil, or ravioli with mint and homemade (of course) mascarpone. The menu embodies simplicity, playfulness and dedication to local terroir (listings detail source and ingredients). What the farmers and purveyors who frequent their screen door don’t provide, the couple contribute: they cultivate their own garden and orchards, and cure meats with obsession. THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Zazu Restaurant & Farm Restaurant Review:ĭynamic duo spouse-chefs, John Stewart and Duskie Estes, a former Iron Chef contender, elevate this country roadhouse, a reformed biker bar, into a showplace for Sonoma County’s finery.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |